Two Rebels, One on Pause. Post #4

Section from the blog entry by Cathy Horyn:

" Rei Kawakubo wanted guests for Comme des Garçons to see the clothes in detail, so before her show on Saturday afternoon she moved the front rows closer, narrowing the long runway in a metal-craft warehouse. You could have touched the clothes. That might have been the idea, but it was not necessary. Ms. Kawakubo’s extreme tailoring was easy to parse.

Rosettes, tubes and lumps of classic menswear fabric were embedded in outfits of the same material, creating weird volumes and textures but also feminine decoration. Checked outfits were papered with overlapping squares of checks. There were also a few lumpy looks in rose velvet or lace, but the most extreme outfits were in a deeply saturated, multihued print. We’ve seen this kind of technical virtuosity from Ms. Kawakubo before, but it was interesting to see how feminine symbols, like rosettes, were absorbed into masculine tailoring — and how the masculine forms exploded into decoration.

By contrast, the tailoring at Jean Paul Gaultier looked stodgy as the designer reprised some of his standard silhouettes and hour-glass leather jackets, now with fluid, ankle-grazing skirts. He flitted between long and short silhouettes, with unappealing skirts in fur patchwork, but he had trouble establishing a relevant look. Some of the deeply vented coats looked fine, but all in all, the show was heavy going. Missing from the collection was the Gaultier wit and, more, the polish." 

Article Retrieved March 3th, 2013 from: Fashion and Style section of The New York Times.

http://runway.blogs.nytimes.com/2013/03/02/two-rebels-one-on-pause/

FASHION REPORTER'S LANGUAGE 

1. SILHOUETTE & DESIGN:

- Hour-glass leather jackets

- Ankle-grazing skirts

- Long and short silhouette.

- Unappealing skirts.

- Deeply vented coats

2. DETAILS:

- Feminine symbols, like rosettes.

- Masculine forms exploded into decoration.

- Fur patchwork.

3. COLOR:

- Deeply saturated, multihued print.

4. FABRIC:

- Rosettes, tubes and lumps of classic menswear fabric were embedded in outfits of the same material.

- Overlapping squares of checks.

- Lumpy looks in rose velvet or lace.

- Checked outfits.

5. CREATIVE "JARGON":

- Extreme tailoring.

- The tailoring at Jean Paul Gaultier looked stodgy. 

- Trouble establishing a relevant look.